Where to Visit in Istanbul
THE
BOSPHORUS
A stay in İstanbul is not complete
without a traditional and unforgettable boat excursion up the Bosphorus, that
winding strait that separates Europe and Asia. Its shores offer a delightful
mixture of past and present, grand splendor and simple beauty. Modern hotels
stand next to yalı (shore-front wooden villas), marble palaces abut rustic
stone fortresses, and elegant compounds neighbor small fishing villages. The
best way to see the Bosphorus is to board one of the passenger boats that
regularly zigzag along the shores. You embark at Eminönü and stop alternately
on the Asian and European sides of the strait. The round-trip excursion, very
reasonably priced, takes about six hours. If you wish a private voyage, there
are agencies that specialize in organizing day or night mini-cruises.
During
the journey you pass the magnificent Dolmabahçe Palace; farther along rise the
green parks and imperial pavilions of the Yıldız Palace. On the
coastal edge of the parks stands the Çırağan Palace, refurbished in
1874 by Sultan Abdülaziz, and now restored as a grand hotel. For 300 meters
along the Bosphorus shore its ornate marble facades reflect the swiftly moving
water. At Ortaköy, the next stop, artists gather every Sunday to exhibit their
works in a streetside gallery. The variety of people creates a lively scene.
Sample a tasty morsel from one of the street vendors. In Ortaköy, there is a
church, a mosque and a synagogue that have existed side by side for hundreds of
years - a tribute to Turkish tolerance at the grass roots level. Overshadowing
İstanbul's traditional architecture is one of the world's largest
suspension bridges, the Bosphorus Bridge, linking Europe and Asia.
The beautiful Beylerbeyi Palace lies just past the bridge on the Asian side.
Behind the palace rises Çamlıca Hill, the highest point in İstanbul.
You can also drive here to admire a magnificent panorama of İstanbul as
well as the beautiful landscaped gardens. On the opposite shore, the wooden
Ottoman villas of Arnavutköy create a contrast with the luxurious modern
apartments of neighboring Bebek. A few kilometers farther along stand the
fortresses of Rumeli Hisarı and Anadolu Hisarı facing each other
across the straits like sentries guarding the city. The Göksu Palace, sometimes
known as Kücüksü Palace graces the Asian shore next to the Anadolu Hisarı.
The second link between the two continents, the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge
straddles the waterway just past these two fortresses.
From Duatepe Hill, on the European side, you can admire the magnificent panorama
of the bridge and the Bosphorus. Below Duatepe, the beautiful Emirgan Park
bursts with color when its tulips bloom in the spring. On the Asian shore is
Kanlıca, a fishing village that is now a favored suburb for wealthy
İstanbulites. Crowds gather in the restaurants and cafes along its shores
to sample its famous yogurt. Shortly after Kanlıca and Çubuklu is the
Beykoz Korusu (İbrahim Paşa Woods), a popular retreat. In the cafes
and restaurants there you can enjoy the delightful scenery and clear, fresh air.
Back on the European side, at Tarabya Bay, yachts seem to dance at their
moorings. The coastal road bustles with taverns and fish restaurants from
Tarabya to the charming suburbs of Sarıyer and Büyükdere. Sarıyer
has one of the largest fish markets in İstanbul and is also famous for its
delicious varieties of milk puddings and börek (pastries). On past Sarıyer,
the narrow strait widens and opens into the Black Sea.
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MUSEUMS
AND ANCIENT CITIES
Hagia
Sophia (Ayasofya) Museum : Aya Sophia was, for nearly a thousand years, the
largest enclosed space in the world, and still seen as one of the world’s most
important architectural monuments. It is one of Turkey’s most popular
attractions, drawn by the sheer spectacle of its size, architecture, mosaics and
art.
For 916 years it was a church, then a mosque for 481 years, and since 1935
has been a museum. Thought to have been constructed by Emperor Konstantinos I
(324 – 337) it was burned down during a revolt. Rebuilt by Emperor Theodosium
II, it was opened for worship in 415 and once again was burned to the ground,
during the Nika revolts of 532.
Emperor Iustanianus (527 – 565) wanted to construct something even bigger
than the original two and appointed architects Isidoros from Miletos, and
Anthemios from Tralles to build the Aya Sophia which still stands. Columns,
heads, marble and coloured stones were imported to Istanbul from ancient cities
in Anatolia for the purpose.
The construction began on 23 December 532, and was completed exactly five
years later. The main, central section measured 100m x 70m, covered with a 55m
high dome which was a mammoth 30m in diameter – appearing to be a great feat
of design. The mosaics are of great importance, and the oldest ones are
dominated by geometric and plant motifs decorated with gold.
The worst desecration of the church was in 1204, ransacked by Catholic
soldiers during the Fourth Crusade. In 1453, after a failure of the Byzantine
Church to fend off the Turks, Mehmet the Conqueror captured the city, rode into
Aya Sofia and immediately turned it into a mosque. It was repaired several
times, and Islamic ornamentation added, for example an extract of the Koran by
calligrapher Izzet Efendi inscribed on the dome. The other reminders of its
previous status as a mosque include huge wooden plaques bearing the names of
Allah, the Prophet Mohammed and the first four caliphs.
The marble and mosaics remain the most interesting aspects today. The columns
supporting the gallery are made from antique marble, and in the western gallery
is the green marble which marks the position of the throne of the Empress. The
impressive figurative mosaics include Virgin and Child flanked by two emperors,
dating back to the late 10th century, and one depicting Christ, the Virgin, and
St John the Baptists. Even though there is partial damage, the haunting images
on their faces remain as strong as ever.
Hagia Sophia Museum - Mahmut I Library
Archeology Museum
Topkapı Palace Museum:
Fethiye Museum (Pammakaristos)
Museum of Classical Ottoman (Divan) Literature (Galata Mevlevi Lodge)
Small St.Sofia Mosque - Ss. Sergius and Bacchus Church
St. Irene (Aya İrini) : This ranks as the first church built in
Istanbul. It was commissioned by Constantine in the 4th century, and Justinian
later had it restored. The building reputedly stands on the site of a
pre-Christian temple.
Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum: Built in
1524 by İbrahim Pasa, the Grand Vizier to Suleyman the Magnificent, this
was originally a palace and the grandest private residences in the Ottoman
Empire – and one of the few which have survived. Some of it, however, was
destroyed and rebuilt in stone to the original designs in 1843.
Now home to the museum, this is considered one of the finest collections of
Islamic art in the world, with a superb display of ceramics, metalwork,
miniatures, calligraphy and textiles, as well as some of the oldest carpets in
the world. Equally as impressive is the grace of the building, with the central
courtyard giving something of an insight into the atmosphere of the residence.
Opposite is the Great Hall, which houses a collection of Turkish carpets,
with exquisite antique carpets and kilims and one of the finest collections in
the world, the oldest exhibit dating back to 13th century.
The Great Palace Mosaic Museum :The Mosaic Museum preserves in situ
exceptionally fine 5th and 6th century mosaic pavements from the Grand Palace of
the Byzantine emperors. Because of the way they are exhibited, it is easy to
understand their size and scale especially because many of them can be viewed
from a catwalk above.
Kariye (Caria) Museum : This is actually Kariye Mosque, once the 11th
century church of St Saviour in Chora, is considered to be the most important
Byzantine monument in Istanbul, after Aya Sofia. Whilst unremarkable in its
architecture, the interior walls are decorated with superb 14th century mosaics.
Illustrating scenes from the life of Christ and the Virgin Mary, these
brilliantly colored paintings embody the vigour of Byzantine art. The restored
wooden houses in the surrounding area are a good place for relaxation and
refreshment.
The church was probably built in the early 12th century, of which only the
nave and central apse remain. Theodore Metochites rebuilt it between 1316 and
1321, the same years from which the mosaics and frescoes date, which depict the
life of Christ in picture-book fashion. There is a series of mosaics in the form
of devotional panels in the narthexes, the theme of which is reflected in the
frescoes in the nave and funerary chapel.
Museum of Turkish Carpets : Across the street from the Ibrahim Pasa
residence is the Museum of Turkish Carpets which contains exquisite antique
carpets and kilims gathered from all over Turkey. Open days to visit: Everyday
except Monday
Yerebatan Sarnıcı (Cistern) : Nearby Aya Sofia is the 6th
century Byzantine underground Basilica cistern, with 335 massive Corinthian
columns supporting the immense chamber’s fine brick vaulting. This is one of
several buried into the city’s foundations, and the first to have been
excavated and renovated. Thought to have been built in the 4th century by the
emperor Constantine, then enlarged two centuries later, it was supplied with
water from Belgrade Forest, amd supplied it to the Great Palace and Topkapi
Palace.
It fell into disuse and was then restored in 1987 with the mud and water
removed, and narrow raised pathways providing easy access for visitors. It is
the largest covered cistern in the city, measuring 140 by 70 metres.
Aviation Museum : The Aviation Museum in Yesilkoy traces the
development of flight in Turkey.
Closed Tuesdays.
Military Museum : Highlight of this museum is definitely the Mehter
Takimi, the Ottoman military band, which performs every afternoon between 15.00
– 16.00. It also has a good collection of Ottoman military memorabilia, like
the cotton and silk tents used by the sultans at war, and armour and weaponry
like heavily decorated jambiyah daggers.
The band, which originated in 1289, became an institution which came to
symbolise the power and independence of the Ottoman empire, and these musicians,
who were janissaries, always accompanied the Sultans into battle. But quite
apart from their benefit on the battlefield, they came to create new musical
styles in Europe, and even influencing Mozart and Beethoven.
Opening hours: 09.00 – 17.00, closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
Maritime Museum : The collection is divided into two buildlings: The
one facing the water has seagoing vessels, and the one opposite the road has
exhibits relating to maritime history of the Ottoman Empire and Turkish
Republic. Highlights include items from Ataturk’s yacht, the huge wooden
figureheads of tigers and swans, and the imperial caiques of the sultans, the
largest dating back to 1648, which needed 144 oarsmen to power it.
Opening hours: 09.00 – 12.30 & 13.30 – 17.00, closed Wednesdays and
Thursdays.
Atatürk Museum : Ataturk's former residence in Şisli, 2 km
north of Taksim Square, now serves as the Ataturk Museum and displays his
personal effects.
Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
Naval Museum : The grand imperial caiques used by the sultans to cross
the Bosphorus are among the many many other interesting exhibits of Ottoman
naval history that can be seen at the Naval Museum located in the Besiktas
district. Open days to visit: Everyday except Saturday and Sunday.
Museum of Fine Arts This collection is in the east wing of Dolmabahce
Palace, once the apartments of the heir to the throne. Although closed for some
time following damage after the 1999 earthquake, it is best known for its late
19th century and early 20th century work, which gives an insight into the life
of the late Ottoman Turks. Osman Hamdi is one of the best artists exhibited.
Opening hours: 12.30 – 16.30, closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
City Museum : Located inside the gardens of Yıldız Palace,
this museum preserves and documents the history of Istanbul since the Ottoman
conquest, including ornaments and paintings from the 18th and 19th centuries
reflect the way of life. Also within the gardens are the Yildiz Palace Theatre,
and the Yıldız Sarayı Theatre (Museum of Historical Stage
Costumes), with richly decorated scenery, stage and costumes. Also exhibited are
portraits of some of the stars who appeared here, including Sarah Bernhardt.
Opening hours: 09.00 – 16.30, Closed Mondays.
Rahmi Koç Industry Museum : The museum is set in an Ottoman-period
building, an 18th century factory which produced anchors and their chains. It
was recently converted, although has retained many of its original features, and
restored by Rahmi Koc, one of Turkey’s most powerful industrialists. It was
essentially done so he could house his private collection of models, machines
and vehicles which he had collected from all over Europe, and exhibits include
original penny-farthing bicycles, a ship’s bridge, and an engine from the
Kalender steam ferry. The museum is trying to raise the Australian navy’s
first submarine sink of gallipoli in World War I.
Opening hours: 10.00 – 17.00, closed Mondays.
Sadberk Hanım Museum : Up the Bosphorus and shortly before
Buyukdere, the collection of an Armenian civil servant fills two charming 19th
century wooden villas. The larger of the two villas belonged to the Armenian,
who became a politician and died in the great Beyoglu fire of 1922. His
collection was put together in memory of Sadberk Hanim, wife of millionaire
businessman Vehbi Koc.
A private museum which originally displayed only Turkish decorative arts, was
recently expanded to include a new collection of archeological exhibits. This is
the oldest section, and includes sixth-millenium BC mother goddesses. In the
ethnography section, there are maternity and circumcision beds, clothing and
jewellery.
Opening hours: 10.00 – 18.00, closed Wednesdays.
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PALACES, PAVILLIONS
Topkapı Palace
One
of the most astounding and popular places to visit in Istanbul is Topkapi
Palace, the symbolic and political centre of the Ottoman Empire between the 15th
and 19th centuries. It stands on the tip of land where the Golden Horn, the Sea
of Marmara and the Bosphorus come together, and is a maze of buildings centered
around a series of courtyards, typical of Islamic tradition. Such is the
complexity of each building, it will take many hours in order to be explored
properly.
It was built between 1466 and 1478, a couple of years before the death of
Fatih. Unlike any European Palace, its architecture is predominantly Middle
Eastern in character. The initial construction was Cinili Mansion, a Glass
Palace finished in 1472, and the imposing main gate facing Sultanahmet, Bab-I
Humayun, and the Palace ramparts, were completed in 1478.
There were originally 750 residents of the Palace, during Fatih’s period,
which became drastically more congested reaching 5000 during normal days and
10,000 during festivals. Extensions had to be built, and the harem was completed
in 1595 during the third Sultan Murad’s era, after which the harem residents
were moved in from the palace at Beyazit, with a total of 474 concubines.
Special tours of the Harem are available. The Harem, literally meaning “forbidden”
in Arabic, was the suite of apartments in the palace belonging to the wives,
concubines and children of the head of the household.
Around the Harem were the Circumcision Room, the apartments of the Chief
Black Eunuch, and apartments of the sultan – in total over 400 rooms. Other
highlights in the Palace are the Spoonmaker’s Diamond (the fourth largest
diamond in the world), the Topkapi Dagger, (a gift from Mahmut I), a vast
collection of paintings and miniatures, and the Pavilion of the Holy Mantle
(including a footprint, a tooth and a hair of the Prophet Mohammed).
Opening hours: Daily 09.00 – 17.00, winter closed Tuesday.
Dolmabahçe Palace
Built
in the reign of Sultan I Abdulmecit during the 19th century, this over-ornate
palace lies along the European coast of the Bosphorus. Dolmabahce Palace was
constructed between 1843 and 1856, mixing different European artistic influences
and built by Abdulmecit’s architect, Karabet Balya. It was built over three
levels, and symmetrically planned, with 285 chambers and 43 halls. It has a 600m
long pier along the river, with two huge monumental gates. The palace is
surrounded by well-maintained and immaculate gardens, with an immense
56-columned greeting hall, with 750 lights illuminated from 4.5 tonnes of
crystal chandelier. The entrance was used for meeting and greeting Sultans, and
opposite the ceremonial hall was the harem. The interior decoration, furniture,
silk carpets and curtains all remain with little defect.
The palace has a level of luxury not present in most other palaces, with
walls and ceilings decorated with gold, and European art from the period. Top
quality silk and wool carpets, southeast Asian hand-made artifacts, and crystal
candlesticks adorn every room. The men’s hamam (public bath) is adorned with
alabaster marble, and the harem also contains the Sultan’s bedrooms and the
women and servants’ divisions. One of the highlights is the throne room, which
stands at an amazing 36-metres high – almost twice the height of the rest of
the rooms. The east wing is home to the Museum of Fine Arts.
Opening hours: Daily 09.00 – 16.00, except Monday and Thursday.
Telephone number to book guided tours: (0212) 23 69 600.
Çırağan Palace
The
most picturesque spots along the Bosphorus and Golden Horn were reserved for the
palaces and mansions for the Sultans, and other important dignitaries, most of
which have now gone. The huge palace was constructed by architect Serkis Balyan
in 1871, as appointed by Sultan Abdul Aziz, from the ruins of the old palace.
The interior was rebuilt, at a cost of four million gold coins, beginning
with covering the ceiling with wood and the walls with marble. The rooms were
decorated with rare carpets, furniture, gold and silver. The sides of the
building were decorated with coloured marble, and monumental gates connected it
to Yildiz Palace, via a bridge, which is how the harem women went between the
two, in total privacy.
It briefly housed the Turkish Parliament from 1908, but was destroyed by a
fire two years later, and was only rebuilt in 1991. Now, it is Istanbul’s
premier luxury hotel, and has retained something of its former glory.
Beylerbeyi Palace
Beylerbeyi,
in which the Asian Tower of Bosphorus Bridge was constructed, is a beautiful
district allotted for palaces since the Byzantium era. Sultan Abdulaziz built
the Palace, to replace the older, wooden palace, between 1861 and 1865. Eastern
and Turkish motifs are used with Western design elements, on the sides and for
internal decoration, and the atmosphere is something resembling that of
Dolmabahce Palace.
The building comprises of three floors, and contains 26 rooms and six halls,
which includes the harem and men's greeting rooms. The interior is decorated
with Bohemian chandeliers, valuable tiles and ceramic vases. Silver-edged
furniture and luxurious carpets add something to the beauty, and even till today
the authentic furniture, carpets, curtains and other property have been well
preserved.
A huge pool, terraces and stables, face the back cliff. A road and tunnel,
used until 1970, passed under the palace garden and were used by the most
distinguished foreign dignitaries when visiting the palace.
Open daily except Monday and Thursday.
Yıldız Palace
This vast park consists of mansions, gardens and lakes, the whole area
surrounded by high walls, and all set in a superb hillside location. Popular at
weekends and holidays with locals, it offers one of the few green areas within
the city centre, and is a great place for walking, relaxing and eating. There is
a steep walk up the hill from Ciragan Caddesi up to the first pavilion, but
rewards are cooling breezes and sweeping views of the Bosphorus.
It was the centre of the Ottoman Empire for 30 years, during the reign of
Abdulhamid II, and the second largest palace in Istanbul. Its main structure,
Yildiz Palace, was built in the old Ottoman style and the pavilions which are
dotted around the park were transformed into a power base. The most important
remaining building is Sale Koske, where receptions were held, and is the largest
and most ornate and reveals the luxury in which the sultans lived and
entertained. The first section was modelled on a Swiss Chalet, the second two
completed in the late 19th century.
Some of the mansions are undergoing restoration, but Sale is open for
visitors, and two have terraces serving food and drinks. Further along the path
is a State museum, the Belediye Sehir Muzesi, and Yildiz Sarayi Theatre.
Park: Open daily 09.00 – 17.30
Sale Kosku: Open daily 09.30 – 17.00, except Monday and Thursday.
Museum: Open daily 09.00 – 16.30, except Monday.
Yıldız Porcelain Factory
Kücüksu Small Palace: Built by Abdulmecit I in the mid-19th century,
it was used as a summer residence.
Closed Mondays and Thursdays.
Aynalıkavak Summer Pavilion : Built in the early 18th century and
later restored by various sultans, this timber royal pavilion is in the Hasksoy
district, on the Karakoy side of the Golden Horn, incongruously placed between a
naval dockyard and cemetery. The last surviving structure of a large group of
buildings, the pavilion is famous for its mirrors, hence its Mirrored Poplar,
which were gifts from the Venetians and installed in 1718. One of the most
beautiful examples of traditional Ottoman architecture, the composition room, a
private room of Ahmet III where he used to compose music, includes a central
brazier and low divans - typical interior of the era.
The pavilion, most recently restored in 2000, also has exhibition of old
Turkish musical instruments. The windows facing the sea are decorated with
stained glass.
Opening hours: 09.00 - 16.00, closed Mondays and Thursdays.
Çinili Köşk (Tiled Pavilion) : The oldest secular building
Istanbul, this was constructed as a mansion in 1472. It was a type of grandstand
from which the Sultan would sit and watch wrestling or polo, and its interior is
beautifully decorated with Selcuk art. It now houses the Museum of Turkish
Ceramics, containing fine example of 16th century tiles from Iznik, as well as
other renowned examples of art and pottery from Selcuk and Ottoman times.
Closed Mondays.
Ihlamur Köşkü : The 19th-century Ihlamur Pavilion is named
after the linden trees growing in its gardens. Although now in the heart of
metropolitan Istanbul, when it was originally constructed, the pavilion lay in
the rolling countryside that surrounded the city.The Merasim Pavilion This was
used for official ceremonies while the Maiyet Pavilion sheltered the sultan's
entourage and, on occasions, his harem on their excursions out of the palace
confines.
Closed on Mondays and Thursdays.
Maslak Pavilion : Maslak Pavilions, situated on a shady green hill,
were conceived by Sultan Abdulaziz as hunting lodges. These are particularly
noteworthy as superb examples of the late 19th century Ottoman decorative style.
Closed Mondays and Thursdays.
Florya Atatürk Sea Pavilion : The Florya Ataturk Sea Pavilion served
as a summer residence for Turkish presidents, beginning with Ataturk. Built in
1935 in a T-shaped design on land jutting out over the Sea of Marmara, it serves
as a showcase for some of the finest examples of early-20th century furnishings.
Closed Mondays and Thursdays.
Filizi Mansion
Hereke Silk Fabric and Carpet Factory
Yalova Atatürk Mansions
Tekfur Palace
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MONUMENTS AND SQUARES
Hippodrome : The ancient Hippodrome, scene of chariot races and the
centre of Byzantine civic life, stands in the area that is now in front of the
Blue Mosque, and now part of Sultanahmet. Of the ornaments which once decorated
it, only three remain: The Obelisk of Theodosius, the bronze Serpentine Column,
and the Column of Constantine. Remains of the curved end of the Hippodrome wall
can be seen on the southwest side of the three.
Today, the square forms the centre of Istanbul’s historical, cultural and
tourist life, and the surrounding wooden houses – especially the 18th century
ones on Sogukcesme Sokak – were recently restored giving them a new lease of
life as small hotels.
Theodosius
Obelisk : Theodosius Obelisk is originally an Egyptian piece of art erected
in 1547 BC and originally 60m tall, but only the upper third of it survived the
shipment from Egypt, brought to Istanbul by Emperor Theodosius in 390. Made from
pink granite, its pictures and hieroglyphs depict the victories of Thutmos III,
and reliefs of members of his family can be seen on the base.
Gotlar Column : This ancient monument remains unchanged since the
Roman Period, and lies at the entrance of Gulhane Park, the external garden of
Topkapi Palace. Erected in the third or fourth century, it composes of a 15m
high marble monolith on a high platform. The column head is adorned with an
eagle, typical of Corinthian method. It is also known as Gots Column, due to the
inscriptions which mention the victory against the Gots.
Çemberlitaş (Constantine Obelisk) : Also known as Cemberlistas
obelisk, this burnt column of masonry was erected by Constantine the Great in
330 AD, in celebration of the dedication of the capital city of the Roman
Empire. It was placed in the middle of an oval square on the city’s second
hill, in the area now known as Cemberlitas, and was burnt during the great fire
of 1779 which destroyed much of the area.
Yılanlı Obelisk (Burmalı Obelisk) : Also known as
Burmanli Obelisk, it was imported from the Apollo Temple in Delphi, to Istanbul
during the fourth century and is one of the oldest monuments in the city. The
original one was constructed in 409 BC, and made from melting and moulding the
guns of the Persian Army, after their defeat to the United Greeks.
Beyazıt
Square : When constructed in 393 AD during the reign of Emperor Theodosius,
it was the biggest square in the city. Originally named as Form Tauri, die to
the bronze bull heads in the victory cases in the middle, today only a few
marble blocks and columns remain, on which the statue of the Emperor rises. At
the north end was the first palace constructed by Fatih, and is now Istanbul
University. The monumental gate at the university’s entrance, and the fire
tower, date back to the 19th century.
The square which decorates the 15th century Beyazit Mosque (the oldest
surviving imperial mosque in the city) lies adjacent to the crowded Kapali Carsi
(Covered Market).
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BEDESTENS
Shopping in Istanbul is often a huge part of any visit, and the city’s
famous historical bazaars offer a wonderful insight into city life. Whether
shopping for carpets, spices, vegetables or clothes, the process of making your
purchase is likely to be enhanced by the atmosphere of wandering through the
crowded stalls - and of course haggling. As usual when bargaining with
persuasive shop owners, have an idea of a good price before you start.
Kapalı
Carşı (Covered Bazaar) : The oldest and biggest closed bazaar in
the world, also known as the Grand Bazaar, has around 4000 shops and over 60
alleyway, covering a huge labyrinth in the city centre. The original two
structures, covered with a series of domes and remains of the 15th century
walls, became a shopping area by covering the surrounding streets and adding to
it over the following centuries. In Ottoman times this was the centre of
trading, and a vital area of town. The Sandal Bedesten was added during Suleyman’s
reign, to cope with the rising trade in fabrics, during the 16th century.
Traditionally the more valuable goods were in the old central area, called Ic
Bedesten, because it was more secure. As quite typical of the area, most streets
are laid out and devoted to a particular trade, for example gold on Kuyumcular
Caddesi, leather on Bodrum Han, and shoes on Kavaflar Sokak. But the trade has
also spilled out onto the surrounding streets, and it is very common to see
Russian traders buying up huge sacks of leather jackets or shoes outside the
main entrance. Even the streets leading to the Golden Horn are lined with
outdoor stalls, which have traditionally been controlled by strict trading laws
to reduce competition between traders.
Apart from the usual shops selling clothes, textiles, jewellry and carpets,
there are small workshops where craftsmen cast and beat silver or brass, in a
skilled trade handed down through the generations. If all that shopping,
bargaining and fending off persuasive salesmen is a little too tiring, there are
also traditional cafes dotted inside the bazaar in which to relax, eat and sip
tea. There are also money-changing booths inside and out. It is slightly less
crowded during weekdays, as most locals shop at weekends.
Mısır Çarşısı (Egyptian Bazaar) : Also known
as the Spice Market, this is Istanbul’s second bazaar, constructed in the same
complex as Yeni Camii (or New Mosque). There are six gates, which make it an
attractive exterior. The L-shaped market, together with the mosque, were built
for the mother of Mehmet IV, a powerful woman who ruled the harem and, some
would say, much of the empire.
Although no longer the prime spice trading area of the city, there is still
the aroma of ginger, cardamom, pepper and saffron from the piles of spices sold
from many stalls. These days it is also popular for great varieties of lokum (turkish
delight), small souvenirs, flavoured teas and local delicacies – including the
dubious sounding “Turkish Viagra”. Locals come here to shop for bed linen
and towels, as well as for fruit and vegetables, coffee, clothes, pots and pans
in the surrounding cramped backstreets. Outside the market on the Galata Bridge
end, is this is the best place to choose olives from huge barrels, and many
varieties of beyaz penir (white cheese).
Bakırcılar (Copper Smiths) : Bazaar Lesser known and
smaller, but nonetheless just as interesting is this market in Beyazit, under
the north and east walls of Istanbul University. Copper is beaten and produced
into many shapes, sizes and forms, and shops sell cauldrons, saucepans, buckets,
candlesticks and the like.
Bit Pazarları (Flea Markets) : Away from the classical,
historical markets which have always attracted tourists, there are many flea and
street markets around the city, usually consisting of streets of junk shops. As
usual, getting a real quality bargain is often down to luck, but it is still an
interesting way to shop.
Cukurcuma Sokak is the central point of streets of shops selling old wooden
furniture, antiques, and books, near the Galatasaray Hamam off Istiklal Caddesi.
Uskudar’s Bit Pazari is on Buyuk Hama Sokak, and in Kadikoy, Ozelli Sokak
sells mainly furniture. Horhor market, behind Aksaray mosque, is famous for
antiques, selling rare Ottoman furniture. The Entel, or Intellectual Market in
Ortakoy sells arts, craft and antiques, music cassettes and books, and is open
every Sunday and usually very crowded. Besiktas Pazar is open every Sunday, a
warren of streets near Sair Nedim Caddesi, sells bargain clothes. Terkoz Cikmaz,
next to the Pasabahce glass store off Istiklal Caddesi, has bargain designer
clothes, factory seconds or overruns from France, England and Germany at
rock-bottom prices. Sahaflar Carsisi is near a flea market, and specialises in
second hand books.
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RAMPARTS
City
Walls : The location of old Istanbul is marked in a triangular shape by the
6½ km-long city wall, called Theodosius II city walls, which started
construction in 413. An earthquake in 447 almost destroyed them, so were rebuilt
in a hasty two months. The mammoth effort was thanks to 16,000 citizens who were
forced to work to get it completed in time to prevent Attila’s forces who were
fast advancing. They completed construction of the original walls, 5m thick and
12m high, plus and outer wall of 2m by 8.5m, and a moat. Since 1990, some areas
have been rebuilt, and some unrestored areas collapsed during the 1999
earthquake. It is possible to walk along the entire length, which would take a
full day, with highlights including Yedikule, Edirnekapi and Mihrimah Camii.
At the southern point of the walls is Yedikule and the Golden Gate, the most
impressive within the walls. The area is an old, attractive quarter with many
churches, since this is the centre of Rum Orthodoxy, the last remaining
descendants of the Byzantine Greeks. The Gate is flanked by two marble towers, a
monumental entrance through which important state visitors and triumphant
emperors would pass through. The gold-plated doors were removed after the
collapse of the empire and the entrance bricked up, although the three arches
are still visible.
The other five towers were added by Mehmet the Conqueror, and together with
the 12m wall it forms the enclave which can be seen today. Two of the towers
were prisons, and the one in the second tower was also an execution chamber. The
wooden gallows and the well into which the heads would roll, are still visible
today, as are some instruments of torture. While the entire enclave was used as
a treasury, warehouse and ambassadorial jail, now it is a museum, still with the
Golden Gate towers and in the summer months, concerts performed here.
Anadoluhisarı and Rumelihisarı : On the Asian side of the
Bosphorus, Anadolu Hisari is a small castle built during the 1390s by Sultan
Beyazit. Together with Rumeli, on the European side built by Mehmet the
Conqueror in 1452, the two fortresses had complete control of passing transport
between the Black Sea and the Marmara. Rumeli, an early Ottoman fortress built
in only four months, before the Ottoman conquest of the city, to prevent the
aides of Byzantine from the north.
Anadolu is always open to explore the walls, and Rumeli has a small open-air
theatre showing concerts and plays in summer. There is also a café perched on
the top, a popular place in summer evenings for tea, served from great samovars,
and light meals. Both fortresses have, of course, a great panoramic view of the
Bosphorus.
Anadoluhisarı, Rumelihisarı and Yedikulehisarı
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